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The round-about route on day 1 brought me to the end of a ridge leading westwards from a cluster of Munros above Glenfinnan.
My vetter said “you have a tough and gnarly ridge to Sgurr nan Coireachan, it will take you longer than you expect”. It looked gnarly on the map, but with fine weather I knew I was going to enjoy myself even if it took longer than planned. The map below shows my route in red with the plan in blue.
Last night’s camp spot at Lochan Bhrodainn was in clear view as I started out. Moving up the ridge, this rear-view was replaced with a wide vista of the hills alongside Loch Morar and of Moidart and the sea beyond. Forwards the ridge twisted its way upwards to a high point which was the top of Sgurr nan Coireachan.
A pathless route brings into focus the contrast between what appears on the map and in the distant view, and what is under foot. It is difficult to find the line which minimises unnecessary ascents over the lumps and bumps in the landscape.
I was soon reflecting on my target for the day. The daily plan is one of the challenges for the TGOC. When you are enjoying yourself and the weather is fine it is nice to linger longer, and even on my eighth crossing I have not managed to incorporate this properly into my plan.
There is is a steep haul to the top Sgurr nan Coireachan. Here after 4 or 5 hours walking I meet my first person of the day. On this new part of the ridge I see fresh small-sized footprints and wonder if this could be from Sabine Z who was heading here today by a different route.
The ridge continues over tops which form part of a popular ‘horse-shoe’ route from Glenfinnan with approaches from the south to Coireachan and Sgurr Thuilm. It is quiet for a Friday and I see only two more walkers all day. The rising wind makes walking slightly uncomfortable but I find a sheltered spot for a lunch break where I am entertained by a couple of courting ptarmigan who call and cluck quietly to each other as they walk around me pecking at the ground.
Half way along this section of the ridge is a second Beinn Gharbh. It seems strange to have two tops with the same name in one ridge, but then it does mean “rough hill”!
It is easy enough under foot, but by the time I approach Sgurr Thuilm I know I won’t be reaching my camp spot below Gulvain. It is 5 o’clock and there’s 7 or so pathless kilometre remaining with about 1000 metres of descent and ascent. My route down via the north ridge may provide some camping options and I know from previous visits that there is fine camping below in Glen Pean.
The picture above shows my target for today – over the next ridge and around the end of the following one to Gualann nan Osna. This would take another 4 or 5 hours, but not today!
After nine hours of walking today I find a suitable spot on the ridge. It is slightly sheltered from the wind and there’s patch of standing water for which I will need to use my filter.
